The artist 'Michelangeli' has works featured all over the town
center, and also is featured prominently throughout Locanda Rosati.
To see more of Michelangeli in Orvieto, find their showrooms
on a narrow little avenue called Via G.Michelangeli 3
Orvieto is one of our most favorite places in all of Italy and ranks as one of the top 25 of our favorite places to take people in all of Europe. Part of the reason is the lovely agriturismo 'Locanda Rosati,' where you are going to be spending two nights.
The town perches on the level top of a soaring 'tufa' outcrop. People have been living here for thousands of years. Indeed, the history of Orvieto predates that of Rome, when this was an Etruscan stronghold and lively population center. There are ruins of a very old Etruscan temple on the edge of the town not far from the well of Saint Patrick, worth a visit if your legs can handle the long and winding stairs up!
Also worth visiting if you are not claustrophic are the underground caverns and work shops used by the citizens of Orvieto many hundreds of years ago. Space 'up top' was at a premium, and so the people ingeniously dug into the soft volcanic rock to create places to press olive oil, operate a blacksmith's shop and even to raise pigeons (for eating). Tickets can be obtained from the tourist office opposite the massive Duomo.
Speaking of the Duomo, do spend the extra few Euros per person to go in and check out the fantastic wall mural by artist Signorelli among others, completed mostly in the 1400s and 1500s. Take time to study the fantastic exterior, especially the scenes of Adam, Eve, Judgment Day and more from the Old and New Testaments. And back inside, admire the translucent windows made of alabaster.
Also inside the Duomo is a fabulous reliquary which in former times held the so-called 'Miracle of Bolsena.' You can read more about that here:
Your dinners on both nights will be at Locanda Rosati. James has already asked Giampiero Rosati, your host, to light a fire for you so that you can enjoy that in the evening with some of his house wine while you wait (probably with tummy growling!) for dinner to be served at 8. Yes, this is a long wait for Americans used to eating around 6:30, but culturally, this is just how the Italians have structured their day. There is a chance that Giampiero may join you for dinner and conversation.
Everything is built into the dinner, four courses, wine, soft drink, dessert and coffee or limoncello, grappa, whatever. No need to tip anybody here, all services are already built in.
For lunch on your second day, James can highly recommend the little Trattoria 'da Carlo,' tucked away on a side street in a tiny square in the center of Orvieto. Giampiero can tell you exactly where he is, or just look for 'Trattoria da Carlo' on your Citymaps2go app. (There is a small sign attached to the tunnel of the tower which holds the large clock, right in the center of Orvieto on the main pedestrian only street. This is about two blocks distance north of the Duomo.
Carlo's spaghetti carbonara is to die for!
Carlo and two of our clients along with Carlo's 'Momma'
who is usually helping out.
James recommends handing Carlo 75 Euro (he only does cash) and just telling him to 'feed us whatever you can for this.' Then just sit back and enjoy.
Reservations are pretty important, as this is a tiny place and you definitely want to sit in the very small front room so that you are front row center for all of the action. Giampiero can help with this.
Other things to do in Orvieto:
The Well of Saint Patrick could be your starting point, and where you ask Giampiero to drop you off.
Then wander up the main street of town, coming to the massive Duomo where you will want to spend some quality time.
Check out the lovely square near the old palace belonging to the 'Captain of the People,' the 'Palazo del Popolo.'
Take time for a cappuccino in one of the cafes on the square.
By the way, when you go into a bar or cafe in Italy, you first find the cash register where you pay for your drink. You tell them, for example, 'Due cappucini, per favore, e due coca-cola.' (Due - do-ay)
You pay, collect a receipt, and then you present this receipt to the barista. Easy! No tipping, even easier!
Walk to the western edge of the town, and see if you can get into the oldest church in the town, the incredibly beautiful San Giovenale.
The oldest church in Orvieto, San Giovenal
was built in 1004 on the ruins of an ancient Etruscan temple (probably
dedicated to Tinia the Etruscan Jupiter), by the unanimous desire of the
rich nobles of the medieval city. San Giovenale is a Romanesque church whose walls are still partially covered in frescoes.
Once you leave the church, you will be at the far western wall and ramparts of the city. From there, wander along the wall, looking down and out for great views. See if you can spot James' fantasy farm, here:
And then from there, just continue wandering your way back, getting lost is half the fun, until you reach the center of the town (easily found by looking for that big tower with the clock) and your meeting place for Giampiero to take you back to the Locanda.
Enjoy Orvieto!
